If my last knit+voile Wiksten Tova was on the masculine side–being grey, with men’s striped shirting fabric and matching Boo’s shirt, this one is oozing with feminine features: florals, swiss dots, rounded corners and pintucks. I’ve become so familiar with this pattern that I took some dramatic liberties with this version–completely altering the inset.
Presenting the scoop neck knit+voile tova!
I added pintucks to the front inset based on another shirt that I have with swiss dots. I originally tried to make buttonholes, but my first one went askew and took forever to unpick, so I sewed the buttons through both layers. Although I’m not loving the little white flower buttons, they are inconspicuous and blend in with the white fabric.
I omitted the gathered front and intended to put a nice box pleat in the centre of the shirt instead. What I ended up with is a microscopic pleat with a gap in the middle! Hardly noticeable. At all. Boogers.
To explain why that happened, I need to describe what I did to draft a new inset. After creating a scoop neck curve, I lengthened the end of the inset where the placket is attached, to account for the extra width of the pintucks. After making my pintucks, I realized that I didn’t leave enough room for the placket. I had to narrow down the placket, ending up with a wider-than-original inset.
To achieve a rounded corner, I traced a small bowl over the corner of the inset, cut it off and taped it to the front pattern piece. When sewing the inset to the front of the shirt, I used a lot of pins on the corners to avoid any puckering. I love the look of the rounded corners!
I used store-bought 1/4″ double-fold bias tape to finish the inside of the inset.
For the back collar, I shortened one collar piece and attached it the same way as the cuffs, except the ends are tucked in, similar to the application of a bias tape finished hem.
While I love the floral printed knit, it has very little stretch and it’s not as soft as my grey tova–I have a feeling that it’s not going to hold up so well in the wash. I’m guessing that the fabric is more poly than cotton, which will start pilling with lint balls. I’ll have to remind the hubs not to put it in the dryer when he does the laundry!
Finally, a couple of photos of me in my latest tova. I had Froo take some outside, but it was rather windy:
We tried once more before going back inside. This is what Froo’s photos look like, when they haven’t been rotated and cropped:
I tried taking some photos inside, to escape the elements. These ones are a classic example of my “I’m trying to look focussed, yet at ease” pose:
This next pose is “how I really feel when I take these types of photos”:
I think my latest tova is dramatically different! I don’t have to worry about flashing a bit of bra here and there with this inset–it is staying shut. The scoop could be a little scoopier, but overall, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out! This is my 7th Wiksten Tova (my 3rd one in knit fabric) and I’ve finally had the courage to alter the pattern. I’m still sewing them up, at least one more–a round-up post will surely ensue.
I’m also drafting a mini version for Froo. I was going to use the same fabric, but then we took a trip to Santa Cruz on Labour Day and stopped by Hart’s Fabric for what seemed like 5 minutes, although the hubs was convinced it was an hour. I was drooling over the fabric selection!
When we finally got to the beach, Froo & Boo had a great time playing in the water. They had absolutely no interest in the boardwalk. The hubs tried a funnel cake for the first time. Boo ate most of my soft serve pineapple icecream. There was a crowded bunch of people trying to savour the last bits of summer. Oh hello, September!